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  • Composition – Direction of Light
    is essentially flat such as a building but it normally isn t what we want when we photograph most things For most subjects the shape is shown much better with indirect light that is light coming from the side at either a 45 degree angle or more like 90 degrees The 45 degree angle light is wonderful to show shape and give your images depth the light that is more toward 90 degrees is better to show surface irregularities for things like grave markers or stone walls Trees in side light show off their shape so much better than light from behind the photographer you ll be amazed once you are conscious of this fact and use it a few times Even light coming from behind the subject in other words towards the photographer called backlighting can be a super way to improve images The metering is a bit tricky on that one as you need to decide of you want a silhouette making the subject dark or if you want a halo effect with the subject showing and bright light around it but both are ways to add impact to your images So the tip for this week is

    Original URL path: http://www.billcurry.ca/?p=1329&replytocom=147159 (2016-02-07)
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  • Steady as She Goes
    at 70mm when shooting so the lowest handheld on a 70 200 is 1 200th of a second And if you re using that APS C the 70 200 is really a 100 300 and so 1 300th of a second and maybe now you begin to see the advantages of a full frame camera Now camera manufacturers know this and they have given you some help and added Image Stabilization Nikon and Canon do this in the lens Sony and some others do this in the camera body and so Nikon for example makes a VR lens available for Vibration Reduction This gives you maybe 2 more stops to hand hold so that 200mm instead of 1 200th as the lowest can maybe be handheld at 1 50th or better yet use 1 100th Image stabilization is a great idea but better still is to use a tripod Long exposures of course demand a tripod but even shooting at 1 500th of a second if you re looking at say birds the image will be far better if done from a tripod And that s what my 400mm takes If I handhold it I m having to shoot at 1 400th and even then perhaps get the blurs Instead I use a nice solid tripod and then I have no worries about any speed except to worry about the bird itself moving I have tripods for in the studio and they are big and heavy and I have one for taking afield and it is lightweight but rock steady Of course the portability comes at a price the field one is made from carbon fibre and was quite pricey but it gives me the images I want The heads are another important thing to think about the ones for

    Original URL path: http://www.billcurry.ca/?p=1305&replytocom=144105 (2016-02-07)
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